What is river tracing?

River tracing is an outdoor activity that combines aspects of off-trail hiking, wilderness navigation, swimming, bouldering, and rock climbing.

A typical route follows an dynamic, usually steep, section of river that is beautiful but difficult to navigate. Traversing challenging features such as waterfalls and gorges may require knowledge of rope systems, high level climbing skills, and experience with dealing with whitewater.

a person climbing up a canyon wall next to a waterfall
Climbing up a tributary of the Mataian River in Hualien, Taiwan.

The history of river tracing

The activity has its origins in Japan, where it is referred to as sawanobori.

This unique form of mountaineering originated in Japan in the 1930s. In Japanese, sawa means “stream” and nobori means “climb”. Consequently, “stream climbing” and “shower climbing” are popular English translations in Japan. Sawanobori, in spite of its epic nature, has not received much media attention outside of Japan. Exceptions include this Redbull feature and this North Face mini-documentary. Learn more about the History of River Tracing in Taiwan.

a scan of ryoji onishi's book featuring photos, a sawanobori topo map and a trip report
An excerpt from Ryoji Onishi’s book 溪谷攀登 published by 山と溪谷社 (Yama-to-keikoku-sha). The book documents his sawanobori ascents and canyoning descents of various rivers in Taiwan and Japan. Notice the “sawanobori map” on the left.

River Tracing vs. Canyoning

River tracing canyoning.

These two activities may sound the same. Both are recreational sports performed in the steep creeks. However, there is one critical difference: the direction of movement. The two activities share skill sets and techniques, but each offers a unique sets of challenges and a different level of risk.

River Tracing

  • Team moves against the flow
  • Climbing equipment: active protection, passive protection (and pitons) are often used
  • Easier to avoid river hazards
  • Easier to bail — it’s always possible to descend the way you came
a climber standing on the side of a deep pool in a canyon prepares to climb a waterfall
a canyoneer rappels down luoshan waterfall

Canyoning

  • Team moves with the flow
  • Gorges without may natural anchors require bolting to descend safely
  • River hazards potentially unavoidable
  • Many sections require TOTAL commitment
  • Customized experiences
  • Smooth communication
  • No language barrier
Two instructors guiding a client through the first wet rappel in Deer Antler Creek.

River Tracing FAQ

What is the best season for river tracing?

The activity is popular year-round. Taiwan’s winters are mild due to the island’s subtropical climate. Wearing an appropriately thick wetsuit is enough to keep warm in the winter. In the summer and fall, mountain creek water temperatures can be as high as 25°C. Depending on the route, a rash guard and running tights might be enough for environmental protection for shorter summer trips.

Can I book a river tracing tour in Taiwan?

Of course! Touring Taiwan’s rivers is a great way to make an unforgettable connection with this beautiful island, and there are several outstanding canyoning guides in Taiwan. We offer assistance in booking tours with guides that specializes in English-speaking clients. These companies hold themselves to higher standards and their guides hold additional certifications such as Canyon Leader and Swiftwater Rescue. They are also actively contributing to the sustainable management and development of Taiwan’s rivers. Reach out to book a tour.

Where can I go as a beginner?

Easy river traces tend to follow flatter sections of creek and feature less obstacles and easier climbing. Most popular routes near Taipei and Hualien will also have clear creek-side herd paths, and some may have permanent installations like fixed ropes and anchors. In the winter, trips up Taiwan’s many larger riverbeds offer easy river tracing experiences which end at wild hot springs.

Is it OK to go without a guide?

As mentioned above, most popular destinations will usually have herd paths leading to them from the road. These trails may be either marked or unmarked depending on the popularity of the destination. More developed watersheds, like Dezikou Creek in Yilan, may also be surrounded by hiking trails, or have sections of trail with fixed ropes for assistance. Any river tracing trip will likely require swimming and scrambling so be sure you are prepared and in shape.

Know Before You Go

1) Take a look at the gear guide.

Learn about the equipment experienced river tracers use to move through rivers safely, including three crucial pieces you should have on you at all times. Get recommendations for advanced and technical routes: River Tracing Equipment Guide.

2) Learn about potential risks and hazards.

River tracing is a high risk activity. Taiwan’s creeks are littered with talus and large boulders, and as a result feature many whitewater hazards. Additional risks include hypothermia, drowning, falling rocks. In the case of an accident, rescue is often both difficult and time-consuming. Browse through the River Tracing Safety Guide to learn about the risks involved and how to identify dangerous areas of rivers.

3) Learn how to research and plan trips yourself.

Read this comprehensive blog entry which explains how to use digital tools to research Taiwan’s mountain areas: Taiwan Topographic Maps: Offline Maps & Aerial Imagery for Hiking and Exploration in Taiwan.

4) Take a class with a reputable training organisation.

The best way to learn how to river trace safety and efficiently is by taking a class with an outfitter that specializes in river excursions. At the moment, only Shawa Taiwan offers technical river tracing classes in English. River guide training and certification courses are offered by providers certified by the Taiwan Sports Administration, however, they are only held once or twice a year and are conducted in Mandarin.